Rameshwaram Jyotirlinga, Ramanathaswamy Temple

Rameswaram is a small island off the south-eastern coast of Tamil Nadu, joined to the mainland by the Pamban bridges. At its heart stands the Arulmigu Ramanathaswamy temple, the shrine of Shiva as Ramanatha, the Lord worshipped by Rama.

In the Dvadasha Jyotirlinga Smaranam the line reads "Setubandhe tu Ramesham", Rameshwar at the place where the bridge was built, and Rameshwaram is counted seventh among the twelve.

Rameswaram is also one of the four Char Dhams, with Badrinath, Dwarka and Puri, and is the southern end of the ancient Kashi–Rameswaram pilgrimage. By tradition, pilgrims bring Ganga water from Kashi to pour over Ramanatha, and take sand from Rameswaram back to the Ganga.

Because Shree Ram himself worshipped Shiva here, the temple is a meeting point of Shaiva and Vaishnava devotion. Tradition even explains the name in two ways: the Lord of Rama, and Rama whose Lord is Shiva.

The Shiva Purana and the Ramayana tradition tell that Shree Ram, on his way to rescue Sita, reached the southern sea with his army. Before building the bridge to Lanka, he worshipped Shiva here and prayed for victory, and Shiva appeared and blessed him. At Rama's request Shiva stayed there as Rameshwara.

A well-loved tradition adds another story. After the war, Rama wished to worship Shiva to cleanse himself of the sin of killing Ravana, who was a brahmin. He sent Hanuman to Mount Kailash to bring a linga. When Hanuman was delayed, Sita made a linga of sand with her own hands, and Rama worshipped it at the auspicious time.

When Hanuman returned with the linga from Kailash and was disappointed, Rama installed his linga beside the first, called it the Vishwalingam, and ordered that it should always be worshipped first. To this day, worship at Rameswaram begins with the Vishwalingam brought by Hanuman, and then the Ramalingam made by Sita.

The 22 theerthams of the temple are said to have been created by Rama's arrows, and bathing in them is believed to wash away sins and prepare the pilgrim for darshan.

Rameswaram has been a holy place since ancient times and is sung of in the Tevaram hymns of the Tamil Shaiva saints. The sanctum is old, and the temple grew in stages over many centuries.

Much of the present temple was built between the 12th and 17th centuries, with major contributions from the Pandya kings, the Jaffna kings and especially the Sethupathi rulers of Ramanathapuram, who were the traditional guardians of the Setu. The famous third corridor was completed in the 18th century under the Sethupathis.

In 1914 the Pamban railway bridge connected the island to the mainland, and later a road bridge was added. A new rail bridge, India's first vertical-lift sea bridge, has since replaced the old one. The temple is managed today by the Tamil Nadu HR&CE Department.

The temple covers about 15 acres and is enclosed by high walls with tall gopurams, the eastern gopuram rising over 50 m. It is a superb example of late Dravidian architecture.

Its corridors are among the longest of any temple in the world. The third corridor runs for roughly 1,200 m in total, lined with more than a thousand carved granite pillars on raised platforms, and seen in perspective it seems to go on for ever.

Inside are the sanctums of Ramanatha with the Ramalingam and the Vishwalingam, and of the Goddess Parvatavardhini. A huge Nandi, made of lime mortar and brick, sits facing the main shrine. The 22 theerthams, wells and tanks of different taste and temperature, are spread through the corridors.

The pilgrimage usually begins with a dip in the sea at Agni Theertham, then a walk from well to well inside the temple as attendants pour a bucket of water from each of the 22 theerthams over you. Drenched, refreshed and humbled, you change into dry clothes for darshan.

Walking the vast pillared corridors in the early morning, with the chant of the priests echoing ahead, and then standing before the linga that Rama worshipped, is one of the most moving moments of any Indian pilgrimage.

Tickets for special darshan, Spatika Linga darshan, the theertham bath and abhishekam are sold at the temple counters, and some can be booked online through the HR&CE temple services. Buy tickets only at official counters.

Ganga water from Kashi is the most cherished offering here. Bilva leaves, flowers and coconuts are also offered, and prasad is available at the temple counters.

Maha Shivaratri, with a ten-day festival and processions of the deities.

Thirukalyanam in the Tamil month of Aadi (July–August), the divine wedding of Ramanatha and Parvatavardhini.

Ramalinga Pratishtha, remembering the installation of the linga by Shree Ram.

Mahalaya Amavasya and other new moon days, when lakhs of people offer tarpan to their ancestors at Agni Theertham.

Early each morning the Spatika Linga, a linga of crystal, is shown to devotees for about an hour, usually around 5:00 to 6:00 AM, with a small ticket. It is one of the most sought-after darshans of the temple.

The 22 theertham bath can be taken with a ticket, during set hours in the day. Many families also perform rites for their ancestors at Agni Theertham and on the island's shores, guided by local priests.

By air: Madurai airport is about 170 km away, a drive of about three and a half to four hours. Tuticorin (Thoothukudi) is another option.

By train: Rameswaram station is about 2 km from the temple, with trains from Chennai, Madurai and other cities over the Pamban bridge.

By road: Buses and taxis run from Madurai, Ramanathapuram and Tiruchirappalli. The road crosses to the island by the Pamban road bridge, with lovely views of the sea.

Autos and local buses go around the island, to Dhanushkodi, Gandhamadhana Parvatam and the other tirthas. The temple and Agni Theertham are next to each other.

Rameswaram has many lodges, choultries and hotels near the temple, including Tamil Nadu Tourism's Hotel Tamil Nadu. Staying within walking distance makes the early Spatika Linga darshan easy.

Book early for Maha Shivaratri, Aadi Amavasya and Mahalaya Amavasya, when the island is very crowded.